swordfish


lest you think that i only make sides and desserts, here is an example of my wide-ranging repertoire- fish. granted, i've made fish maybe five times in my whole life, but none of them were a total disaster, and that makes me feel like i’m qualified to share with you here. the great thing about fish is that it cooks fast, looks good, and can be gussied up pretty easily- a requirement for most of my food. this particular recipe is stolen from my mom, who, if you are unlucky enough not to know this already, is an incredible cook and a truly superlative baker. and i’m not just saying this because she’s my mom- which i think is the highest complement i can give her.

while swordfish is expensive, it is also very dense, meaning you don’t have to eat much to be full. a $20 purchase of two swordfish steaks fed grace and i for dinner and lunch the next day. this recipe couldn’t be easier- even the most pedestrian of us always has butter in the fridge, and a jar of quality anchovies packed in olive oil is a good investment at 7$-you’ll be surprised at how much you use them- cooked down, they don’t taste fishy at all. parsley is one of those things cooks put in everything- it brings a fresh, verdant flavor, but honestly, is never *totally* necessary. the swordfish is simply cooked and the all flavors in the compound butter melt together to create a nutty, green, complement to the fish.

swordfish with parsley-anchovy butter

make the swordfish:
two swordfish steaks
salt and pepper

pat dry the steaks and season. heat up about 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a non-stick skillet until shimmering. pan fry the swordfish until firm to the touch- about 15 mins, depending on the thickness.

make the butter:
4 tablespoons salted butter, softened
1 anchovy fillet, minced
1 garlic clove, either pressed through a press or chopped into a paste
1 and 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

beat butter with fork until light and fluffy, stir in remaining ingredients until thoroughly combined. serve on hot fish, allowing butter to melt.

dining together


design sponge had a great round-up of communal dining tables for the home, which got me about the new trend of communal dining at restaurants. i have been to at least 4 upscale places in manhattan (and le pain quotidian, which doesn't count because it's a bakery and it's everywhere) that offer communal dining: buddakan, mercer kitchen, the tasting room and hudson cafeteria. my first exposure to this trend was at mercer kitchen, where i felt lucky that my graduation dinner wasn’t seated at the communal table-i don't know how much my parents would have liked sharing our private function with another group. at the tasting room our group was around 15 people, big enough to justify the communal table. since the table was so big, and the rest of the restaurant was so small, it felt more like we were eating in some amazing cook’s kitchen. for both mercer kitchen and the tasting room, it seems the introduction of the communal table just has to do with space- it makes more sense to have a very large table in the restaurant so that you can accommodate big groups as needed, and book it in smaller fractions, with the added "hip" component, for groups of 2 or 4. however, at buddakan and hudson cafeteria, it is much more about the scene; buddakan is a cavernous space where the communal table is at the bottom of a grand staircase- if you're seated at it, you are sure to be noticed, and sure enough, the time i went it was populated by sex-in-the-city types. for hudson cafeteria, they’re going for ambiance. again, they have more than enough space, but the long, long tables and the high backed throne chairs give you an alice in wonderland feeling- as if you’re at the table with the angry queen of hearts. it's equal parts whimsy and terror, which is rare for a restaurant setting, and probably not what they were hoping for, because ultimately it is not very appetizing since the space distracted from the food, which happens to be very good.

my default brunch place, boerum hill food company, also has a communal table, which i've only sat at once, when my brother was in town and our party was big enough to fill the table with no need for strangers. because that's what they are, like it or not, strangers- even though you’re supposedly going to bond after breaking bread with them. i guess i’m just not nice enough to want to share my meal with someone i don’t know. although it is almost inevitable that the seats at the communal table will be available before seats at a regular table, i've always declined, preferring to wait longer.

it must be obvious by now that i’m not a fan of the communal table- while sitting with strangers might prove interesting, ultimately the whole experience distracts me from the real reason i went to the restaurant in the first place: the food.

bread making for novices


that old that saying "give a man a fish and feed him for a day; teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime" is very applicable here. bread is something we all eat, usually daily, but seldom know how to make, or make well. i had never ventured into bread making, save for the occasional banana bread, until i read this NYT article last year. after the article, it seemed like every blog i read was raving about this bread, and STILL it took it me over a year to make it. i'm feeling so guilty about all that time i wasted.

for those of you who want to impress- this is the recipe for you. it bakes up a deep brown, with a bakery-worthy crust and holes galore in the crumb. for those of you who are lazy, and who want the luxury of eating warm, fresh bread, without going to the store on a rainy sunday- this is the recipe for you. i feel guilty for not giving the recipe to you sooner, so that you could have the bread baking and the smell wafting from the kitchen while you watched that game-winning play last night- a perfect evening. and lastly, for those of you, like me, deeply intimidated by the whole "art" of bread-making, this is the recipe for you. it is perfectly foolproof and shockingly easy. so easy in fact i'm a little sorry i'm sharing it with you now; i've burst the bubble and when you come over next time and i serve it to you, you'll have made it too and know what a cinch it is. at least i hope so.

No-Knead Bread from the NYT, adapted

3 cups all purpose or bread flour (you can find some great varieties here)
1/4 teaspoon instant yeast
1 tablespoon salt (i used rosemary salt)
cornmeal as needed

combine yeast, salt, flour and 1 and 1/2 cups water until just blended. this takes about 5 stirs with a wooden spoon. don't worry if it looks wet, or still flour-y. i've made this bread twice now and the second time i added fresh chopped rosemary too. i imagine you can add all sorts of things; i'm going to try some salty olives next time.

once combined, cover tightly with plastic wrap and let rest about 18 hours, although i've done it up to 20.

lightly flour work surface and turn bowl upside down. dough should be very sticky. wet your hands and turn the over on itself once or twice, so there is a smooth part and a seam. place the dough ball seam side down on a kitchen towel dusted with cornmeal, dust top of dough with cornmeal, place another kitchen towel on it and let it rest for another 2 to 2 1/2 hours. while dough is resting, heat your oven to 475F and place a heavy covered pot in it. i use my 4.5 quart le creuset and it works perfectly. when the dough is rested and the pot is screaming hot, just dump the dough into the pot. that's it.
cover and bake for 30 mins. uncover and bake for another 15. this is SO worth it.

blue sky


in the middle of winter, and especially on rainy days, it is nice to see a picture of the blue summer sky and little red berries.

zingerman's


today is game day, which means i eat a lot of wings and look through old catalogues. one catalogue that i'm always happy to look at over and over is zingerman's. grace makes fun of me because after i've looked at the catalogue four or five times and read every last word in the description i play this game where i pick one thing i want on each page just to make the experience last longer.

believe me when i tell you that i've read these until they are tattered and stained. everything sounds so delicious and the pictures are hand-drawn. i've been wanting the charles chocolates pâté de fruit for the longest time- if they taste even a fourth as good as the description, i'll be happy.

if you have a foodie in your life, anything from this catalogue would be a great valentine's gift. i especially recommend the dulche de leche, which always elicits the "where did you get that?" endorsement whenever i serve it.

Zingerman's

Ann Arbor, MI

saving #1: money in the matress


yes, yes, we all hear it- the mantra of our parents to "save, save, save". like much of the advice we get as children and teenagers, it is vague and virtually useless. no one tells you how, or how much, or where. if you try to do a google search, you'll turn up a million different companies that want your money to do who-knows-what with. well, that's all changing now. in the next couple of weeks, i'll lay out the various strategies you can employ in saving money, how to determine how much (and where) to save, and most important, EXACTLY how to do it. it's going to be a long haul, so be warned.

high yield savings accounts

right now, you've probably got a checking account at a regular bank that is linked to a regular saving account. mostly likely, your savings account is earning around 2% interest and that checking account is earning less than 1%. (you can check these numbers by calling your bank) currently, the inflation rate is around 3% on average (actually, right at this moment it is higher, but i'll explain this another time), and with the markets tanking, this is likely to rise soon.

what does this mean for you?
well, #1 is that volatile goods like food and gas are going to get more expensive. and #2, if you're currently earning less than the rate of inflation in your bank accounts, you're actually *losing* money; that is, over time your money will buy you less goods. people are encouraged to put their money in the bank instead of under their mattress because in return for giving the bank your money to invest, the bank pays you interest on your balance; basically you earn money just by having money- like the old saying goes "the rich just get richer". but if what you are earning in interest is lower than what you are having to pay in rising inflation, you are still theoretically putting your money under the mattress- i mean, it is safer in the bank because it is insured against loss and you can use online bill-pay and you don't have to sleep on a huge lump and you're making an teeeeensy bit of money, but it's basically the same.

so, what to do?
in subsequent posts we'll figure out how to craft your financial goals and your saving and investment strategies to match those goals. creating and keeping a budget is a important first step in the process. but right now, a good idea would be to open up a high-yield saving account, which is a regular FDIC insured savings account with a higher interest rate than average. with the Fed cutting interest rates left and right, opening one up now means you might still be able to take advantage of higher interest rates before they drop. you can transfer the money out of the account to a brokerage account or a CD, or even back to your checking account if you want, but having a chunk of money earning more than inflation is a good way to hedge your bets against the rising prices to come.

how to do this:
first of all, determine how much money you can put into this account. you can determine this by figuring out what you're comfortable with having in your regular checking account to cover all your budgeted expenses. i'm fine with just having $1,000- all the rest of my money is other accounts. other people might be comfortable with a different number; grace needs at least double mine to feel secure. this doesn't mean she spends more than me, just that she more comfortable with that number. money is inextricably tied to our psychology, like it or not. next, determine your liquidity needs. do you often have emergencies where you need to dip into your savings (and i don't mean that really expensive and delicious triple cream french cheese you saw at whole foods, andrea!)? if so, you might want to consider opening up this account with your current bank- most major banks offer these accounts as an add-on option to your regular accounts. always always always check about addition fees and minimum balances however! if you are the kind of person who, if they know they can walk to the nearest atm and hit the 'savings' button, will buy that really expensive (and truly delicious!) triple cream french cheese, then you should probably opt for an online-only account. this gives you a layer of protection from yourself, as you have to wait 2-3 days for the money in the account to be transfered to your regular bank, but it also means you have less liquidity. (confused about that word? don't worry, i'll explain it another time)

now you know where you want to open up the account (either your bank or online) and how much you want to put into it. by the way, this doesn't mean you have to close your savings account- you can still leave some money in there if it makes you more comfortable. here is the really hard part- go and open the account. if you take a look at this chart, you'll see all the different rates for various banks. note that these rates are for TODAY only, they often change (but not by a ton) everyday. to give you some perspective, when i opened my ING Orange account at the height of the market, the rate was 5% and there were even some banks offering 5.5% returns. you won't find that now, but growing your money at the 4% they are offering you now is still far better than what it will probably be in a couple months, and is obviously much better than the 2 or so % you make at your regular bank- so start today!

by the way, it is very easy, and safe to open one of these accounts, just make sure it is FDIC insured and don't put more than $100,000 (yea,right!) into one account. it takes maybe all of ten minutes and you can set up automatic transfers every month, which we'll get to next time.

if you have any questions, feel free to email me.

ps. i had to post this cute picture of wally so that you would be implored to read this post. if you got this far down, congrats!

doughnut plants


when i was in high school, my mom started a habit of going to the gym in the morning. after her workout, she'd pass by the local bakery and bring home doughnuts for me, my father and brother. i don't know if it was a way to fatten us up so that her resulting weight loss would be even more pronounced, or if it was just a misguided attempt to please her breakfast-hungry family, but either way, i grew up eating ,and loving, doughnuts.

naturally, when i moved to NY i was excited by the ubiquitous dunkin donuts, but soon found their doughnuts stale and too sugary. since, i've moved on to greener pastures.

a round-up of my very favorite doughnuts:

1. doughnut plant
old time doughnuts re-created loving by hand by mark, who uses his grandfather's recipe from the early 1900's. he used to deliver them by bicycle all over the city, but has since opened up a tiny storefront in the lower east side. the history is cute, but the doughnuts are unreal; meyer lemon, valrona chocolate, pomegranate, peanut butter and jelly. there is a place near my work that stocks them and whenever i have a bad day, i pick one up on the way home and inhale it before i get to the end of the block. sometimes, if the day is really bad, before i even get to the front door. this is probably the main reason i'm not getting any skinnier.
(i just checked the website and they just opened a new location in seoul, korea. seemingly random, i feel this is my personal calling to move to korea, having just discovered the revolutionizing joys of korean fried chicken this past weekend.)
Doughnut Plant

379 Grand Street
NY, NY 10002

2. craft
its a little clichéd in the foodie world to mention craft, tom colicchio's flagship restaurant, especially since he is now known as "the bald guy on top chef", but i actually really love the food. i love the entire restaurant; the soothing rothko decor, the heavy copper pots and the sweetly delivered breakfast treats wrapped up to go at the end of the meal (last time it was a chocolate chip scone). and for dessert they have doughnuts: airy, light, warm, sugar-cinnamony (is that a word?) little balls served with various jams and dips. what's there not to love?
Craft
43 East 19th Street
New York, NY 10003
Other locations in LA, Atlanta and Dallas

3. peter pan
i found this place by accident when grace was picking me up in the car from greenpoint. we were driving by and i saw a sign for doughnuts. i yelled at her to stop and i hopped out, shortly returning with a creme-filled one that cost me less than a dollar. (thanks grace for all your patience with me!) little did i know this was a well-known and celebrated place. i found out shortly after i ate the doughnut, because things this good are never secrets.
Peter Pan Bakery
727 Manhattan Ave.
Brooklyn, NY 11211

4. krispy kreme
it would be wrong to omit this from my list just because it is controversial; some people hate it because it is too sweet, mushy, etc etc. but if you've ever had a hot one right off the conveyor belt, you know this is pretty close to doughnut nirvana.
Krispy Kreme
Various Locations

5. jelly filled doughnut in vieques, pr
i was in puerto rico last year and right by the main ferry on the tiny island of vieques was a hole-in-the-wall bakery that had all sorts of delicious looking goods, as well as jelly doughnuts. i don't know if it was because i was in a tropical paradise, or the salty air, but this doughnut was divine. i have a very embarrassing picture of me eating it looking CRAZY. i guess that's what i look like when i eat...?
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